How to fix damaged hair, and what a treatment cannot undo

|Liam Jones
11 min read
Curly hair before and after, shown side by side

Start with the part nobody selling you a treatment wants to say first. Hair is not living tissue, so damage to it cannot be undone. A split end does not knit back together, and no bottle rebuilds it.

What a good treatment does is fill, coat and smooth, so the hair behaves like less damaged hair while the product is on it, breaks less while you handle it, and stops getting worse. That is worth doing, and over a few weeks it makes a real difference to how hair looks and how much of it you lose to the brush. It is just not repair in the way the word is usually used.

So the useful question is not how to repair damaged hair. It is which kind of damage you have, what stops it progressing, and how much of it you are going to have to cut off.

The four kinds of damage, and how to tell which is yours

Most people have two at once, a main one and a secondary one, and treating the wrong one first is why a damaged hair routine can feel like it is doing nothing.

1. Mechanical damage, the commonest and the easiest to stop

What it is: wear on the outside of the hair from handling. Towel rubbing, brushing dry, sleeping on cotton, the dent a hair tie leaves, breakage at one consistent point on a ponytail.

How to spot it: split ends, single strand knots, a straw like feel through the mid lengths, and breakage that happens while you are styling rather than while anything chemical is going on.

What to do: here the habits beat the products. A microfibre towel or a cotton t-shirt instead of terry towelling. A wide tooth comb, only on wet hair with conditioner or a leave-in through it. A silk or satin pillowcase. Fabric scrunchies rather than bands with a metal clasp, and not tied in the same place every day. Hair stops acquiring new damage from the day you change these, which is most of the win.

2. Heat damage

What it is: structural damage from irons, tongs and hot dryers used without protection. Straighteners run at temperatures that change the hair itself, and once that is done no conditioner reverses it.

How to spot it: ends that look crispy or slightly see through in daylight. Curls that have lost their pattern in the bottom two or three inches while the roots are still fine. Hair that feels rough dry and closer to normal wet.

What to do: stop the heat for a few weeks and use a protectant every single time it goes back on, not on the days you remember. Then accept that the worst inch is not coming back and have it cut. Heat damaged ends do not recover, they stop getting worse.

3. Chemical damage, the deepest and the slowest

What it is: damage from bleach, colour, perms or relaxers, where the internal structure of the hair has been broken down faster than it can hold together.

How to spot it: wet hair that stretches much further than it used to before it springs back, and sometimes does not spring back. Breakage under almost no tension. Lengths that feel soft in a mushy way rather than a good way. Bleached sections behaving differently from the hair that grew in after them.

What to do: a protein led routine, used at every wash rather than as an occasional mask, and given weeks. This is the kind where a single treatment genuinely does nothing and a routine genuinely does something. It is also the kind most likely to need length taken off.

4. Hygral fatigue, the one people miss

What it is: wear from the hair swelling and shrinking too often, which is what washing does. It shows up most on porous hair and in hard water areas.

How to spot it: hair that takes noticeably longer to dry than it used to, feels tired within hours of washing, and takes product unevenly. Usually paired with washing five or more times a week.

What to do: wash less. Two or three times a week rather than daily. An oil on the lengths before washing slows how fast water gets in. If you are in a hard water area, read the hard water guide as well, because the minerals are doing half of this.

Dry or damaged? They are not the same thing

This is the fork that decides everything else, and it is easy to check.

Dryness is a water problem. The hair is thirsty, it feels rough, it frizzes, but it does not break. It wants moisture.

Damage is structural. The hair snaps, splits, or has stopped holding a style it used to hold. It wants protein.

Put moisture on damaged hair and it goes softer and breaks just the same. Put protein on hair that is only dry and it goes brittle. Most people who say a routine made their hair worse had picked the wrong one of these two. If your hair is dry rather than damaged, Moisture & More is the shelf, and the frizz guide is the post.

What a repair routine actually looks like

Four steps, once a week, with ordinary washes in between.

  1. Cleanse gently. A shampoo that strips hard works against everything else you are about to do, because the detergent takes out the proteins the rest of the routine is putting in.
  2. Condition every wash, without exception. Slip is not a luxury on damaged hair. It is what stops the comb doing more damage on the way through.
  3. Add a weekly deep treatment. Ten to fifteen minutes on towel dried hair, mid lengths and ends, with a shower cap on if you have one.
  4. Leave something in. A leave-in on wet hair is the step that carries the routine through to the next wash, and it cushions the hair against the handling that caused the mechanical damage in the first place.

Damaged hair is porous hair. It takes product in fast and lets it go fast, which is why one mask never holds and a routine does.

What to expect, honestly, over eight weeks

These are the changes worth watching for. None of them is the hair going back to how it was.

The first fortnight. Less comes out on the brush and less is left in the plughole. That is the first thing to change and it is the one that matters most, because every hair you do not break is one you do not have to grow back.

Weeks three to five. The mushy feeling in wet lengths reduces. Hair sits flatter and holds a shape a day or so longer than it did.

Weeks six to eight. The hair looks and behaves better, and the damaged part is still damaged. What has changed is that it is no longer getting worse, it breaks far less, and it is being carried by the routine. The split ends from week one are still split ends. The only thing that removes those is scissors.

If your hair is badly damaged, plan on a cut as part of the fix rather than an alternative to it. A routine plus taking an inch off twice over six months gets you further than either on its own, and much further than waiting for a treatment to do the cutting for you.

What we stock for damaged hair

All milk_shake, and we are an authorised UK stockist, so they are the same bottles a salon buys. Prices are today's.

Integrity Shampoo, £19.93 for 300ml. This is the repair wash, and it is the first step in milk_shake's Integrity and Strength line. It is built to clean gently enough not to undo the rest of the routine, which matters more than it sounds. Check availability and the current dispatch date on the product page.

Integrity Conditioner, £20.84 for 300ml. The second step, and the one carrying the protein. Hydrolysed keratin and amaranth seed extract are the two actives to know about here. Used after the Integrity shampoo at every wash, this is the step that compounds. Check availability and the current dispatch date on the product page.

Colour Care Mask, £18.89 for 200ml. The weekly deep treatment, and the right one if your damage came from colour or bleach. Ten minutes once a week does more for how long colour lasts than anything done on the day it is applied. Check availability and the current dispatch date on the product page.

Colour Care Shampoo, £20.95 for 300ml, and Colour Care Conditioner, £22.15 for 300ml. The everyday pair for coloured and highlighted hair, in stock now. The shampoo puts milk and wheat proteins back as it cleans, and the conditioner works on milk protein and sunflower extract. This is what to wash with while you wait for the Integrity pair, and what to keep using alongside them.

Leave In Conditioner, £23.25 for 350ml. The detangling spray, in stock. The cheapest single thing you can do to stop breakage, because hair is at its weakest wet and a comb through bare wet hair is where a lot of day to day damage actually happens.

Thermo Protector, £24.95 for 200ml. Heat protection, in stock, and the only step in any routine that prevents damage rather than treating it. If you are going to keep heat styling, this is not optional.

The whole shelf sits together in Dry & Damaged.

What to stop doing

  • Deep conditioning every day. Once a week is the dose. Daily over softens hair that is already struggling to hold itself together.
  • Protein masks more than once a week. Too much protein looks exactly like too little moisture: brittle, dry and breaking. If a repair routine has made your hair feel worse, this is usually why.
  • Washing in hot water. Lukewarm is the temperature that matters. A cold rinse at the end is not going to undo a hot wash.
  • Brushing it dry, from the top. Start at the ends, work up, and preferably do it with something in the hair.
  • Waiting to see if the split ends grow out. They travel upwards. Cutting a small amount regularly costs less length in the end than leaving it.

When it is a job for a salon

If your hair goes gummy or jelly like when it is wet, or breaks under almost no tension at all, home routines are not the answer. That is a stage where a professional treatment during a service, or a strategic cut, will get you further faster. It is also the point at which another chemical service is the worst possible idea.

We stock care, treatment and styling products, and we do not sell colour or offer advice on it. If the damage came from a colour that has gone wrong, that conversation belongs with the person who did it.

Damaged hair questions

Can damaged hair be repaired?

Not in the sense of undoing the damage. Hair is not living tissue and it does not heal. Treatments fill and coat, so hair behaves better, breaks less and stops getting worse, and that is a real improvement you can see. What removes damage is growing hair out and cutting the damaged part off.

Can damaged hair be fixed without cutting it?

It can be improved without cutting. It cannot be finished without cutting, if what you have is split ends. A split travels up the hair shaft, so leaving it costs you more length later than taking a small amount now. For heat and chemical damage that has not split yet, a routine on its own does hold it.

How can you fix damaged hair at home?

Work out whether it is dry or damaged first. Then: wash less often and cooler, use a gentle shampoo, condition every single wash, add one weekly deep treatment, put a leave-in on wet hair, stop the heat or always protect against it, and change how you towel, comb and tie it. That list is most of the result, and half of it costs nothing.

How do you fix really damaged hair?

The same routine, plus scissors, plus patience, plus stopping whatever caused it. Severely damaged hair that is still being bleached or straightened daily will not recover, because it is being re-damaged faster than anything can help. If it is breaking under low tension, see the salon note above before buying anything.

What is dead hair, and is there a treatment for it?

All hair past the scalp is dead in the biological sense, which is why the word gets used loosely. What people usually mean is hair that has gone dull, rough and lifeless at the ends. There is no treatment that brings that back to life, because there is no life in it to bring back. There are treatments that make it look and behave much better, and there are scissors for the part that is beyond that.

What shampoo should I use for damaged hair?

A gentle one, and preferably one from a repair line rather than a moisture line. A strong detergent strips out the proteins a repair routine is trying to put in, so a harsh shampoo undoes the conditioner you paid for. Ours is Integrity Shampoo, £19.93, with availability and the current dispatch date on its product page. If you need something today, Colour Care Shampoo is £20.95 and in stock.

How do you repair damaged hair from bleach?

Protein at every wash, a weekly deep treatment, no heat while it recovers, and no further lifting until it has. Bleached hair is porous, so it takes product in fast and loses it fast, which is why little and often beats one big treatment. Expect to cut some of it.

What are the signs of damaged hair?

Split ends, single strand knots, hair that snaps when you brush it, wet hair that stretches and does not spring back, ends that look see through in daylight, a style that will not hold any more, and more hair on the brush than there used to be. One of those on its own may be nothing. Three of them together is damage.

How long does it take?

Less breakage inside a fortnight. A visible difference in how it looks and holds by about six weeks. Getting the damaged length off entirely takes as long as your hair takes to grow it out, which for most people is somewhere between six months and two years depending on how much has to go.

The short version

  • Damage cannot be undone. It can be stopped, carried and eventually cut off.
  • Check dry against damaged first. Dry wants moisture, damaged wants protein, and the wrong one makes it worse.
  • Conditioner at every wash, one deep treatment a week, a leave-in on wet hair.
  • Change the towel, the comb, the hair tie and the pillowcase. That is free and it is most of the mechanical damage.
  • Heat protectant every time, or no heat.
  • Plan on a cut as part of the fix, not as the thing you are avoiding.
  • Starting point: Integrity Shampoo and Integrity Conditioner with availability and the current dispatch date on its product page, or Colour Care Shampoo and Colour Care Conditioner in stock today.

If you would rather have it picked for you, a qualified hairdresser we work with will write you a personalised routine, free, with any order. Send your hair details through Ask an Expert, or take the Hair Quiz if you would rather answer questions than write.

Liam Jones, owner, Innate Beauty. I am an authorised milk_shake stockist and not a qualified stylist, so what is here is what I have learned from stocking these lines and reading their technical sheets. If your hair is breaking badly, see someone who can put their hands in it.

Related reading: Why is my hair frizzy · Shampoo for hard water in the UK · The Curly Girl Method UK guide.

General guidance, not tailored to you. If you have a scalp condition or you are losing hair, speak to a doctor or pharmacist.